Overnight on Doublehead

My blog post for these early winter days is one in which I will let readers see why I so enjoy the "View from the Original Cheap Seats".

Recently I stayed overnight with friends in a Civilian Conservation Corps cabin built in the mid-1930's on the summit of North Doublehead Mountain.

It wasn't the first, nor will it be the last time, I have hiked there for a relaxing weekend overnight getaway.

Doublehead Mountain is a relatively small mountain (North Doublehead 3050 ft., South Doublehead 2938 ft.) off the beaten path of the more famous Appalachian Trail and the Mt. Washington/Presidential Range to the North.

View of Presidential Range

It is located in Jackson, NH, 3 miles north of North Conway on Rt. 16.  The name Doublehead refers to the two distinct, trail connected peaks of the mountain which are separated by a very steep incline and a level saddle area.  There are two trails to the North summit, the Ski Trail and the Old Trail. These two trails are connected to a third trail from the south, the New Trail, which starts at the base of the mountain about 500 yards from the Ski Trail.  

Beginning in the small parking area, the Ski Trail is a 1.8 mile, moderate to difficult hike to the top, while the Old Trail also summits North Doublehead 0.9 miles after diverging right a half mile into the Ski Trail and going up the steeper part of the mountain.  The Old Trail connects in the saddle between the peaks to the New Trail, which ascends from the south side of the mountain (1.3 miles to South summit, 1.7 to North) on a moderate to somewhat difficult trail.  The New Trail summits South Doublehead first, then descends, passing a gorgeous cliff top lookout west over Jackson to Mt. Washington, then connects with the Old Trail and climbs rather steeply to the cabin.

Inspiration for "View from the Cheap Seats"

It is a mainly wooded mountain with three exceptions: the view west from the open cliffs near the summit of South Doublehead, the view west from the Civilian Conservation Corps cabin on North Doublehead, as well as the partial view to the east from what we Cheap Seaters have dubbed "the back porch" near the cabin.  On clear nights one can see the lights of Portland, Maine on the coast.

Tuckerman Ravine (L), Mt. Washington (C), Huntington Ravine (far right)

I hope readers have the chance to do a day hike sometime, perhaps doing a loop up the various trails to maximize the views, or even have an overnight adventure in the cabin.

Sunset over Mt. Washington Range

Be forewarned, there is no water on the trail or at the cabin, with the cabin being heated by whatever dead wood can be gathered and burned in the small wood-stove.  

Enjoy.

Written by: Brian Markee

Preservation Services Closed December 24 - January 4

Preservation Services, the Digital Production Unit, and the Book Arts Workshop will be closed from December 24 until January 4.  

For your pleasure we offer links to our most popular blog posts in 2015:

The ABCs of Digital Preservation

The Dartmouth Brut: Conservation, Authenticity, Dissemination

Digital Production Roundup

Hiking Beaver Brook Trail in Winter

The Making of a Multi-color Linoleum Block Squid 

Structural Intervention: Treatment of Albums from the Iconography Collection 

Digital Production Roundup

Sometimes great content comes through the Digital Production offices and we don't have a chance to share it. Here are a few of my favorite selections from recent shooting sessions:

"The Flayed Angel" by Jacques Fabien Gautier D'Agoty, available to view in Rauner Special Collections. Read more about it here

A design for a theatrical device by Denis Diderot, co-founder/chief editor/contributor to the Encyclopédie with Jean le Rond d'Alembert

Vintage ad from Dartmouth Alum Robert L. May's scrapbook. May created the Rudolph character in 1939; read more about him here

Concert posters from Dartmouth history, scanned for an exhibit in the Baker Berry Library: Fleshtones concert poster, 1983

Spring Formal poster with Duke Ellington

New Hampshire maps from the Evans Map Room, scanned as part of the Granite State Maps project

Map illustrations

Written by Ryland Ianelli

Wauchipauka Pond / Webster Cliff Trails from Glencliff, New Hampshire

White Trilliums, a welcome sign of spring.

As winter finally makes its exit from New Hamphsire, my next hiking blog is one of a trail that I have done in spring many times over the past 20 years.   I will warn you, later in the spring is probably the most enjoyable time for this hike as the ground has mostly dried and the flying bugs haven’t yet become the bane of all who pass.

Starting from the large parking area on Route 25 in Glencliff, NH (8.5 miles east of the RT. 10/RT. 25 junction in Haverhill, NH) and heading south on the Appalachian Trail, the flat trail follows along the base of a small mountain (Wyatt Hill) for approximately ¼ mile before turning sharply right and climbing steeply and diagonally across the incline.  Along this part of the path are a few rocky outposts that have limited wooded views of the area below and to the north.  The steep climb is approximately ¾ of a mile, then the trail levels a bit. You will walk another 1/4 mile before reaching the height of the land, which is marked by a large, split rock.  Here you begin a slow descent through the hardwoods towards Wauchipauka Pond.  As you get lower in elevation and closer to the pond, Webster Cliff becomes visible, the path gets soggy, and the trail hugs the cliffs base staying above the sometimes murky and damp lowlands.  This area is the reason I like to wait until the snow is mostly gone from the woods.  At the base of the main cliff, a nearly hidden side trail veers off to the left of the trail and follows the ponds edge until coming to a wonderful camping spot on a prominent peninsula with fine views across the pond (really more of a lake in size).  If you miss the side trail, bushwacking to that point is easy to do.

Lady slippers on this trail are abundant.

Continuing along the Appalachian Trail above the pond, you start back uphill and cross an old logging road at  2.3 miles where the Webster Cliff Trail bears to the right with the Appalachian Trail continuing on towards  RT. 25A and Mt. Cube.

The Webster Cliff Trail (0.7 miles in all) is fairly rugged and quite steep for nearly a half mile, but has some really wonderful woodland flower beds and  random wildflowers, along with some other friends that would probably rather stay invisible.

Little froggie friend.

More beautiful lady slippers.

The trail levels out and after a short flat walk through scrub, you emerge to a superb lookout to the south of Wauchipauka Pond, Warren, Wentworth and on to Mt. Carr in the distance.

Looking down at the Wauchipauka Pond from Webster Cliff.

The round trip hike to the cliff is 6.0 miles and can be done easily during these longer and much warmer days.  I like to bring a hearty lunch for my stay at the top of the cliff. I hope you can venture out there as well.

Enjoy.  

Written by Brian Markee

Hiking Beaver Brook Trail in the Winter

On the north side of Mt. Moosilauke along the Appalachian Trail there is a ¾ mile long cascading waterfall I very much enjoy hiking alongside, especially in the winter months.

The Beaver Brook Trail begins in Kinsman Notch off Rt. 112 (Kancamagus Highway) at a large parking area a half mile west of the Lost River tourist attraction. (A $3 fee can be paid via envelopes available at the trail head). As you head out along the easy grade part of the trail it begins by crossing small feeder streams at 3-4 spots prior to the warning sign at the base of the soon to be much steeper trail (the second 2 streams are crossed on bridges where a beaver pond near the lot can be viewed to the right).

The Warning Sign on Beaver Brook Trail.

The final 3 tenths hike from the sign to the base of the falls rises and hovers over the lower stream bed while clinging to the side of the steep side hill.

Steep trail above the lower stream bed.

Once at the base of the falls you begin a very difficult and, in the winter, very slick climb alongside the falls.

The author takes a rest at the falls.

I have climbed this area without ice spikes, but find it far easier and more enjoyable with them, especially near the top of the falls where there are man made stairs that can get a tad iced over.

Amazing iced stairs at the top of the falls.

At the highest point of the falls is a sitting spot with a wonderful view to the north along the top of the Kinsman Ridge of Mt. LaFayette.

A view to the north along the top of the Kinsman Ridge of Mt. Lafayette.

All along the trail you never stray more than 30 yards from the stream, and there are dozens of great spots for pictures, resting and just plain site seeing. For me, the winter brings out a naturally formed beauty with the frozen falls, the hidden water beneath them gurgling and shaping the ice from below. 

**Caution is always a must as the thickness of any ice over water can’t be judged from above. 

Enjoy

Written by Brian Markee

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Preservation Services, the Digital Production Unit, and the Book Arts Workshop will be closed from December 23 until January 5. 

For your pleasure we offer links to our most popular blog posts in 2014:

Attachments: Book Arts Style

Geographies: New England Book Work

Digital Collections to Get Lost In

The Appalachian Trail at Quinttown Rd. Junction.

Top Dog

Dartmouth College is located in rural New Hampshire along the Connecticut River and Appalachian Trail System.  Although the Library and College are a fast paced place to work after 5pm things slow down to the quiet rhythm of small town life.  I moved to West Lebanon, NH from Chicago and the things that have kept me here are the simple pleasures that make this a special place to live and raise a family.

All of this is by way of allowing me to brag that my dog won the Lebanon, NH Top Dog Contest.  I admit it has nothing to do with preservation or the book arts.  File it under Summer's End.

2014 Top Dog

Nancy Drew, age 17

Written by Barb Sagraves

The Appalachian Trail at Quinttown Rd. Junction

To start the new year off I’d like to share with you the location of one of my favorite year round hiking/X-C skiing areas.   It isn’t a hike up some big mountain or a mile long stretch of startling cliff top vistas, but a walk/ski on an old logging road that crosses the Appalachian Trail in the backwoods of Orford, NH.  This area has many fun outdoor options; a short day hike to Eastman Ledges, a long walk or XC ski to the height of land and a view of Mt. Moosilauke, or a cool walk beside Jacob's Brook, which sports many beautiful waterfalls, oddly shaped crevasses, and wading pools .

In the small town of Orford, NH, take Rt. 25A 3.8 miles east to a right turn onto Quinttown Rd (on Rt. 10 North from Hanover, Orford is approximately17 miles). Quinttown Rd. heads steadily uphill for 2 miles into the valley between Mt. Cube and Smarts Mountain. The wooded, single lane dirt road winds along beside Jacob's Brook to a lower parking area near an active sugaring operation.  In the summer months there is more parking a half mile past this spot near an old logging cabin and a gated entrance onto private but accessible land.

The walking/skiing on the gated part of Quinttown Rd. is gradual and easy for most of the approximately 3 miles to the height of land.  There are perhaps one or two somewhat difficult inclines on this road walk, but on the whole it’s an easy grade.  In the summer people can ride trail bikes here (pedal only, no motorized vehicles), but most days I rarely see other human beings.   YEA !

The view at the height of land looks to the north with a pretty view of Mt. Moosilauke from an unusual angle.  Skiers be warned, since this trail is part of the snowmobile trail system in NH, caution is necessary with an ear to the ground for oncoming snow machines.  You can usually hear them from quite a distance and stepping off the trail is easy.  My experience has been that they are quite courteous and will slow down while passing by.

At about ¾ of a mile on, you cross the Appalachian Trail, one side heading north to Mt. Cube, the other heading south leading eventually to Smarts Mountain.  The north trail climbs rather steadily to a superb lookout that is only a half mile from Quinttown Rd.,  Eastman Ledges.

The view is mainly to the south and west, but the valley below spreads out beneath you in glorious fashion.  My favorite time of year at this spot would have to be fall as the colors in the huge hardwood valley will amaze even the most rabid leaf peeper.

Lastly, Jacob's Brook is a hidden local gem in my opinion.  The large brook flows through the long valley between Smarts and Cube all the way to the Connecticut River back in “downtown” Orford.

The North and South Branch connect very close to the AT crossing, separately meandering upwards to the ponds above up in the hills.  At any point along Quinttown Rd. you can take a very short walk through the woods, or simply down one of the many open embankments to the brook.

While rock hopping up the brook itself from the parking, one encounters a seemingly endless series of waterfalls, deep pools, and amazing angled rock crevasses and outcroppings.

My personal favorite is a waterfall/pool about 300 yards upstream from a new bridge crossing Jacob's Brook on the AT. The bridge is a very short distance from Quintown Rd. (found on the “J” Trail heading south to Smarts Mt.) and the falls are well worth the rocky scramble.

Once again, I hope this blog and the accompanying photos will inspire anyone interested to head on out to a now not so secret getaway.

Enjoy.

Written by Brian Markee

A View From the Cheap Seats - Round 3!

A hiker friend of mine came up with the label “View from the Cheap Seats” one day while a group of us were sitting atop South Doublehead mountain, gazing from the ledges down over a wooded valley to the distant village of Jackson, feeling like we were all sitting at the top of the cheap bleacher seats in a ballpark watching life pass on by.

Lime Kilns and Black Mountain

The journey up Black Mountain is a hike that I make as a monthly favorite in all seasons, partly because it is so near to my home, but in larger part due to its two very different choices of trails. One can opt for an easier woods walk or a fairly difficult (rocky and steep) trail, both of which meet at the top of Black Mt. The trail I will describe begins on the southern side of Black Mt. (The easier woods trail or “Black Mt. Trail” begins at the end of Howe Hill Rd. a right turn off Rt. 116 in Benton, NH, about seven miles east of the North Haverhill junction with Rt. 10. This hike goes from north to south and is fairly easy and uneventful until one reaches the open summit. It’s a favored winter hike with snow shoes, or if the trail is already packed down, regular boots and climbing spikes (if necessary).

The Chippewa Trail begins in a tiny parking area two miles down the Lime Kiln Road which is nearly 3 miles east of the junction of Rt. 10 and Rt. 116 East. (parking on the side of the road is acceptable year round, but might be a problem during the winter months due to plowing).

The trail immediately descends from the parking area into a marshy/swampy area, winding in and out of boggy spots, between downed trees and finally crossing a small brook on a gigantic fallen pine. The trail comes up and out of said marshy area and connects to an active logging road.

An interesting side trip (left hand turn) should be made here to view the Lime Kilns. (These three photos.) In years past limestone was mined from the surrounding area and prepared in the giant kilns which still stand today. These amazing and massive rock chimneys are an awesome physical presence out in the middle of the woods.

After emerging from the low area, the Chippewa Trail turns right on the logging road, continues on for 200 yards, and then via markers diverges left into the woods towards Black Mt. From this point the trail gradually turns into a moderate climb for perhaps a half-mile. An old homestead’s cellar hole is passed on the left signaling the more rugged part of the climb. Here the trail drastically steepens from the moderate walk and doesn’t relent until one nears the upper reaches of the mountain, approximately ¾ of a mile. I’d liken it to climbing an endless ladder upwards, making many rest stops necessary even for experienced hikers.

Fortunately on this steepest part of the trail there are many easy to reach rocky ledge lookouts to the south offering great views of the small valley you have just come out of. After climbing for close to an hour, the worst of the steep part ends with a beautiful cliff top view south to the oddly shaped Sugarloaf Mt. and Mt. Cube beyond. The final ½ mile is far easier and takes one in and out of the woods while traversing many open ledges with fine views just prior to reaching the summit.

The top of the mountain is physically interesting with its elongated spine and open, glacially scarred rocky ledges.

Summit south in winter.

Summit south

The author at tipping rock.

One isn’t limited to the southerly view either, as the knife-edge like top (not too visually severe as the trees have grown in over time) is perhaps a quarter mile long with the southern end allowing views south and west towards the North Haverhill plain, and the northern end of the ridge (featuring Tipping Rock) facing the Kinsman Mt. Range, Cannon Mt. and finally Mt. Lafayette.

Kinsman Mt. Range, Cannon Mt. and Mt. Lafayette

East to Mt. Moosilauke

Summit north

Summit southwest

At all points along these open ledges there is a wonderful view to the east over a high altitude valley leading ones eye eventually to Mt. Moosilauke.



Enjoy !




Written by Brian Markee

A View From the Cheap Seats - Round Two!

A hiker friend of mine came up with the label “View from the Cheap Seats” one day while a group of us were sitting atop South Doublehead mountain, gazing from the ledges down over a wooded valley to the distant village of Jackson, feeling like we  were all sitting at the top of the cheap bleacher seats in a ballpark watching life pass on by. 

Franconia Notch from both sides

The Franconia Notch area was once home to the iconic New Hampshire figurehead hanging from the cliffs of Cannon Mountain known as “The Old Man of the Mountain”.    Unfortunately, the Old Man crumbled and finally tumbled down into the valley below back in 2003.  Ah, gravity.  The two hikes I will highlight in this entry start from the same parking area (Cannon Mt. Tramway) but ascend opposite sides of Franconia Notch. 

The first hike, to the Old Man’s former hangout, is Cannon Mt. which features a tramway to the top of the ski slope, as well as a viewing tower for all season adventurers.  My journey travels about ¾ of the way to the Cannon Mt. summit (4100 ft.), the last ¼ being a far easier hike,  completed in perhaps a half hour.  

The Kinsman Ridge Trail

The Kinsman Ridge Trail (part of the Appalachian Trail) begins on the western side of the notch, climbing steeply almost immediately through the hardwoods after leaving the Tramway parking lot.  The trail parallels, and at one point joins, the ski trails for much of the upper part of the 1.5 mile hike (approx. 1.5 hrs.). This steady, rugged climb enters into the scrub pines after veering away from the ski slopes eventually leading to a side-path which I feel offers the most spectacular view of the Notch and Franconia Ridge.  The photo’s I offer support this opinion far better than I ever could with words .

The left side of Franconia Ridge looking east.

The top of the former Old Man in the Mountain Head.

The right side of Franconia looking southeast.

Old man with a beer!

The second hike ventures to the summit of Mt. Lafayette (5260 ft., 6^th highest in NH) and is a much longer, fairly difficult climb on both the Greenleaf Trail and the Old Bridal Path, which intersects at the Greenleaf cabin, for a total hike of 3.8 miles, at least 3 hrs.  This hike is more suited to avid climbers out for a day-long event and should not be viewed as a casual day-hike. 

Below Eagle Cliff.

The Eagle Cliff Pass looking west to Cannon Mountian.

Crossing under I-93 to the eastern side of the notch, the trail follows alongside the highway until an abrupt left turn leads one up a rather steep, rocky incline via switchbacks to Eagle Pass at 1.5 miles.   This spot offers fine views to the west across the Notch to Cannon Mt. while passing thru a natural cleft between Eagle Cliff and one of Lafayette’s western buttress’. After making your way through the boulders in Eagle Pass, the now more moderate trail skirts the long western buttress for a bit more than a mile through the hardwoods until reaching the Greenleaf Hut at the junction with the Old Bridal Path (trailhead of the Old Bridal Path is accessible a mile or so south of the Greenleaf trailhead). At the hut, hikers can enjoy a rest, a candy bar and a glass of cold lemonade offered at a small cost. Leaving the Greenleaf Cabin on the Old Bridal Path one descends into a small swale and skirts a small pond prior to a moderate and rather treeless climb to the summit of Mt. Lafayette (1.1 miles) .

From the cabin looking towards Mr. Lafayette.

This area can be dangerous in bad weather conditions as there is no protection other than seeking shelter under boulders in make-shift caves  (an experience I have unfortunately had during a quick moving summer thunderstorm,  one not enjoyed at all and definitely not advised).  Live and Learn.

Mt. Lafayette Summit looking west to Franconia notch.

I hope these photo’s give the viewer a real sense of the mountainous regions above treeline here in NH.  

Mt. Lafayette Summit  south along Franconia Ridge.

By Brian Markee